If you think of vacation towns on the Yucatan Peninsula, you’d surely come up with places like Cancun, Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum. Those cities have great amenities for a family vacation, but lately seem to be overrun with crowds, vendors, and tour operators. As we searched for a weekend getaway with our kids to a lesser known location, we came upon Isla Holbox. Imagine a small island on the north end of the peninsula, which resembles more of a rural small-town (on an island) than a fully developed city. There are no paved roads, people drive around on golf carts, and the beaches are peaceful, and absolutely stunning. We loved our time in Isla Holbox and hope you consider it on your next trip to the Quintana Roo area!
How to Get to Isla Holbox
The easiest way to get to Isla Holbox is to take a ferry from the closest town to the island, Chiquila. There are two companies, 9 Hermanos and Holbox Express, that together run basically ferries every half hour. Tickets cost ~$10 USD (200 pesos) per adult, $5 USD (100 pesos) per child, and kids 3 and under are free. The ferry itself is smooth, and we were even treated to a live performance through our quick 30-minute voyage!
To get to Chiquila, you can take the bus from either Cancun or Playa del Carmen. We took a 2-hour 20-minute bus ride from Playa del Carmen using the ADO bus service, and it was comfortable and safe! The bus station in Chiquila is about a 5-minute walk from the port, so it’s a quick transition. In terms of time, we left the Playa del Carmen bus station at [9:25]AM, and arrived at the port in Isla Holbox by [12:30]PM.
Once you get to Isla Holbox, there will be taxis waiting for you to take you to your accommodations. And by taxi, I mean a golf cart! All the streets in town have dirt roads, so it’s a dusty and sometimes bumpy trip, but the town is small, so it shouldn’t take you more than 10 minutes to get to where you need to go. We paid 40 pesos (~$2 USD) to get from the port to our Airbnb on the edge of town.
Things to Do With Kids
As you go from the port to your hotel, you will likely drive past the “downtown” area, which is basically just a block in the middle of town with an amphitheater-looking stage, basketball court, and kids’ playground. We spent the better part of an afternoon there; the kids got to play on the playground sets while we relaxed on a nearby bench. After 7PM, you’ll start to see street vendors roll in with their carts, selling all kids of food, from crepes, to tacos, to fresh cut fruit. Isla Holbox is very tailored towards backpackers, but surprisingly enough, we saw plenty of families as well. There were kids all over the playground (but it wasn’t packed), and older kids were playing soccer, basketball, and even baseball on the sports court.
Rent a Golf Cart
A golf cart tour of the island is the perfect way to spend the day in Isla Holbox. There are a few ways you can get this done. You can either hire a driver to take you around for 3 hours (at a cost of around 800 pesos), or you can rent a golf cart yourself. It cost 600 pesos to rent a golf cart for 3 hours, 800 for 4 hours, 1,200 for 10 hours, or 1,500 for 24 hours. We were able to negotiate a rate of 1,100 pesos for 10 hours, and felt that it was well worth it. The golf cart gave us the flexibility to explore basically the whole island. We started the day by driving around and seeing the north side of the island. We parked and explored the main beach for a few hours, and then after waiting out a rain storm, we headed to the west end of the island, Punta Coco, where we watched the sun set. We returned the golf cart at 8PM after having dinner.
Punta Coco
Punta Coco is a beach on the west side of the island, and is the prime spot to watch the sunset on Isla Holbox. While there are no restaurants on the beach, there is a small beach club that serves some snacks and refreshments. The biggest benefit in Punta Coco is that for the most part, you won’t find as many people here as on the main beach. This gives the whole area a more private and relaxing feel.
Bioluminescence Tour
One of the more unique experiences in Isla Holbox is to check out the bioluminescent phytoplankton on the beach at night. As the phytoplankton get agitated by the waves of the ocean, they release a protein that gives them a blue glow and lead to beautiful sights. The best time to see the bioluminescence is when there’s a New Moon (usually toward the end of the month). This is when there is the least amount of light in the sky and the blue glow truly shows. You will see plenty of signs around town where you can book a driver to give you a guided tour. We didn’t get a chance to check it out for ourselves, but the people we spoke to said it was an amazing sight. So, if you have kids that are willing to be up at 1AM to witness the bioluminescence, then by all means go for it!
Three Island Tour
The Three Island Tour is also a popular option to spend a half day. At around $40 USD per person, you are taken on a boat ride to, you guessed it, three islands! You will go to Bird Island, where you have the opportunity to view up to 150 different species of birds. You will also go to Yalahau lagoon, a fresh water pool. Finally, you will stop by Passion Island on the southwest corner of Isla Holbox, where you can get some beautiful views of the surrounding area from a lookout tower.
Whale Sharks
Whale sharks are the biggest fish in the ocean, and if you visit Isla Holbox during the right season (June to September), then it’s an absolute must-do activity. Whale sharks are huge but gentle creatures, and swimming alongside them is a bucket list experience for both adults and kids 6 and older. Whale shark tours can range anywhere between $100-150 USD per person, and are best to book between June and August, when there’s a better likelihood that whale sharks will be visible. It may take an hour or two to find whale shark sightings and the trip may be bumpy, so if you’re prone to seasickness, make sure you take motion sickness medication with you.
Keep an Eye Out for Street Art
As you walk around the main part of Isla Holbox, you will undoubtedly run across several works of street art. From what I heard, the Quintana Roo government commissioned artists to paint many of the walls around town and within restaurants. Although some haven’t been as well preserved, the murals and works of art are colorful additions to the town and a fun way to explore the area, since you don’t know what you’ll find around the corner!
Where to Stay
We stayed at an Airbnb called Isla Bonita, which was very basic and motel-like but highly affordable. It’s located about a 5 minute walk from the main town square, so it’s very peaceful and quiet. Our room had two double beds, a mini-kitchen area with a small fridge and microwave, and 1 bathroom. There was a TV with cable and WiFi as well. One thing to note though, the WiFi throughout the entire island is very unreliable and spotty. The first day we got there the WiFi signal was out, and came back the morning after. The connection was strongest in the morning, and weakest in the evening (when I assume a lot of people are on it).
If you’re looking for a more luxurious experience, there are plenty of hotels across the street from the main beach. We’ve heard good things about Casa Las Tortugas and Las Nubes de Holbox.
Dining
La Tortilleria Española
We tried a few restaurants for breakfast, but La Tortilleria Española was by far the best! They have healthy options like fruit salad, sweet options like pancakes that the kids loved, and Mexican staples like chilaquiles. They also have Spanish Tortillas, which are basically a mix of quiche and omelette. The restaurant is located right on the main town square so it’s pretty central to everything.
Taco Queto
I’m not going to lie, we came to Taco Queto every single night for dinner, and we’re not ashamed to admit it! Although this is a “sit-down” restaurant, the service is BLAZING fast. As in, 2 minutes after you order your tacos, they show up on your table. With young kids, this makes such a big difference since we can be in and out pretty quickly, keeping both the kids and our bellies happy. They have every kind of Mexican food you can think of, from tortas, to quesadillas, to nachos, and of course, the tacos. Tacos al Pastor are our favorite, and the ones here at Taco Queto did not disappoint! The restaurant is about a block from the main square and is only open for dinner.
El Hornito Argento
If you’re craving Italian food, El Hornito Argento is there for you! Their thin crust pizzas are very savory, and they also have a variety of pastas to choose from. And for those that enjoy beer, the restaurant also has a small selection of craft beers (including an IPA), in case you’ve had enough of a Mexican lager. This restaurant opens at noon and is right on the main square as well.
Things to Note
- Make sure to bring plenty of pesos with you before you get to the island. Once you get to Isla Holbox, most places only accept cash. There are a few ATMs on the island, but all except for one dispense cash in US dollars. Then, you’d have to take that to a currency exchange where you’ll get some pretty low exchange rates.
- The weather can have drastic impacts on the quality of your experience in Isla Holbox. When we arrived, we had a nice, sunny day and the beaches were beautiful. There was a low amount of seaweed, the water was extremely clear and beautifully blue. Then, a storm rolled in. After the storm, the seaweed began to come in, and the water became more of a greenish gray. Also, since the streets are all dirt, getting around town became a bit harder since it was muddy everywhere.
- Streets aren’t very well marked on the island, to the point that many taxi drivers don’t know street names (even though the street name are shown on Google Maps). When getting a taxi, it’s better to give them the name of the place you’re going to (the Plaza, the main beach, etc.) rather than an address. You could also give them a landmark to get them going in the right direction (our Airbnb was next to the airfield, for example).
Ultimately, Isla Holbox is an amazing destination to visit with kids. The island has not yet been overrun by tourists, and there is a very authentic Mexican feel to the whole area. If you have a few days to spare, then make sure to visit Isla Holbox, you won’t regret it!
